![]() this is only an add on.īetter results can be had tho using a SPL meter and a quick learning of how to use em properly. remember: this is a tool used primarily for ROOM EQUALIZATION and not SPEAKER SETUPS. It does tho, most of the time, has a hard tiime evaluating the speakers size, and since subs produce a non-localized point, its difficult for it to determine where it is. sure its not up to par to a calibration done by a professional, nor would it determine everything up to a precision, but its a start. Its a great way to start figuring out the relations of your speakers and the acoustic environment you currently have. MCACC settings (and its counterparts like audyssey), are essentially built in tools used for the common clientele to calibrate their systems, including speaker distance, equalization (at times), and other parameters tailored towards your listening area, resulting in a good fine tuned environment. ![]() On topic tho, i guess ive posted this a number of times, but always revert to it for reference. I was just kind of agreeing with most of what was said before. I did already know some things about home theater already, Jomar. Indeed, many will say this can rob headroom from maximum playback capability, but I haven't run into this problem yet - I get zero distortion from my system with these positive values made in calibration and IntelliVolume control, and thanks to the recommendations of Fors and others here, I am comfortable with my speakers on 80Hz across the board.īut Fors, I know exactly what you mean by always tweaking and playing with your system - every few days or so, I go into my TV, receiver and Blu-ray player's setup menus to make sure all settings are EXACTLY the way I want them (even though they couldn't have changed on their own overnight but I'm an anal maniac with this stuff) and sometimes tweak a calibration level a point or so - I was doing this awhile with my sub level because of our neighbors and the wife's dislike of heavy bass. In addition, compounded with the positive speaker calibration levels, I also keep my Onkyo's "IntelliVolume" system for the Blu-ray player/DVD input cranked up to "+10dB" so the overall system sounds much louder at lower master volume numbers. While it's frouned upon by real enthusiasts and experts/professionals, the "not needing to turn the master volume up" thing is exactly why I tweak my system by ear to personal taste and leave all the speakers in their positive ("+") ranges - normally, I leave the two front mains at "+6dB" and the center at "+8dB" while the surrounds get the same treatment.if I am equidistant between the two surrounds, they get left at "+6dB" as well, but in my current setup, I am almost less than one foot away from the left surround (it's VERY close to my ear because the sweet spot is a very strange location in this setup, at the very end of a sectional sofa) so the left surround channel is at "+3dB" (although recently, I have been thinking this value needs to be dropped because it's really close to my left ear.). Just last night I felt like playing with my SPL meter, and sure enough it seemed to be running a bit hot, so I turned down some of my channels by. With the SPL meter, the sound should be more balanced and thus, the reason you find yourself not having to turn up the master volume as much. ![]() The recommendations will give you the headroom you need when you play at much higher volumes without any distortion or clipping kicking in. I may keep messing with it a little, but I like it even more so far! ![]() Maybe it's just my mind but I also seem to be able to hear more 'details' in a lot of tracks as well. Im a basshead I can notice a difference in a good way, and I also don't have to turn the volume up as much as I did before. I also made sure (using a meter) that all the speakers are as close to 75db as possible, except the sub which I have around 80-85db. Well when I got home last night I changed my settings to what forsberg recommended (fronts at 60hz, sub at 120hz, center and rears at 80hz). ![]()
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